Magic-Glos 5-Inclusion UV Resin Faux Opal by Karen A. Scofield

Trial Runs: Transparent Resin Faux Opal Goddess Pendant Using Magic-Glos UV Resin

Why Trial Runs Using Magic-Glos Resin?

Lisa Pavelka’s Magic-Glos UV Resin allows me to work fast (layers cure in 15 minutes), build a focal bead in layers, and experiment. I’m using this resin to try out some new products, techniques, combinations, and sequences as I learn my preferences in resin faux opal making.

Sure, it’s more expensive per ounce, but ruining a whole batch or three of a dozen or more beads at a time is even more disheartening. If I didn’t allow for a leaning curve like this first, I probably would have given up on resin. It can take months or years to really master the medium. (Things are ridiculously easy in our mind’s eye if our imagination isn’t informed by experience and tried and trusted knowledge base.)

So, here are some of my best results so far, note the slight amber tone at this depth with this resin, and I’m about to Faux Opals in Ice Resin and ArtResin. (See How to Ice Resin, How to ArtResin.) At this thickness, I expect almost no amber tone with Ice Resin and no detectable amber tone with ArtResin.

UV Resin Faux Opal by Karen A Scofield 2017

UV Resin Faux Opal by Karen A Scofield 2017

Magic-Glos Resin Tips

1. Don’t seal paper or cardstock inclusions with Mod Podge or PVC (white craft) glues if you’re using them with Magic-Glos — reactions between water-activated mediums, inks, and Magic-Glos can occur over time.

2. Bubbles can be prevented almost all the time. Read resouces given here. Bubbles can be removed by letting cured item sit one hour, drilling a hole into the bubble, cleaning up drilling debris, adding just enough Magic-Glos, and curing again.

Things Magic-Glos Doesn’t Work Well With

  • PVC glues – your white craft, nearly all decoupage mediums/glues, and school glues are PVC glues — https://thebluebottletree.com/what-is-the-difference-between-mod-podge-and-acrylic-medium
  • Air–dry glues — air-dry glues get trapped under things, don’t cure 100%, then release air bubbles into your curing resin. Use two-part epoxy glue instead!
  • Ice Resin, whether or not each resin is cured or wet (insured) — chemical reaction between the two resins causes cloudiness
  • Water-based sealants – any sealants that are not waterproof after drying (water resistant is not waterproof)
  • Alcohol inks
  • Unsealed inkjet prints
  • Anything that may run or bleed if wet
  • Sharpie markers

If in doubt, test first, often weeks ahead to make doubly sure.

Baking Magic-Glos

Don’t. Don’t bake Magic-Glos. Avoid temperatures over 100 degrees F. See MSDS.

Warning: Baking Magic-Glos with polymer clay will cause the resin to amber (brown). See MSDS sheet (link given above) for further info.

Magic-Glos Layers

Doming, Pulling Away, and Self-Leveling Properties and What They Mean to the User — The same properties that allow Magic-Glos to dome causes the resin to pull away from edges/periphery in first layer or two, hence a good dome is built up in layers, each of which are cured before the next is added. The last layers are minimal amounts and it may help to spread the resin nearly to the edge (with a toothpick or small ballpoint stylus) and then let Magic-Glos self-leveling finish the job, finally fully covering evenly and doming. Let it sit 10 minutes to 1/2 hour out of UV light to let it finish self-leveling and to let air bubbles make themselves evident. The self-leveling properties mean that you might think you only added enough, the self-doming is a bit of a delayed reaction, and then suddenly you have Magic-Glos running over the sides. If still uncured, it can be cleaned up with cotton swabs and wet wipes but prevention is better than damage control. Prevention involves adding thinner, multiple layers that are each cured before the next is added and curing your item while on a pedestal — a bit of polymer clay or poster-tx on a craft mirror a bit larger than your piece but small enough to fit in the UV lamp oven.

If the overfill cured, it can be pried off with your hands and/or chipped off with a craft knife.

Minimum Number Of Layers — usually 2 layers, less is more, meaning it’s better to add thin/incomplete layers than to overfill. Thinner layers allows the air bubble popping method of passing a butane mini torch or windproof lighter over the surface of the Magic-Glos for one and only one second.

Polymer Clay Faux Estonian Limestone 2nd Try, by Karen A. Scofield

Polymer Clay Faux Limestone Goddess Bead

Polymer Clay Faux Limestone Goddess Bead by Karen A. Scofield

Polymer Clay Faux Limestone Goddess Bead, by Karen A. Scofield. Picture was taken in natural light. 1st Attempt.

Polymer Clay Faux Estonian Limestone 2nd Try, by Karen A. Scofield

Polymer Clay Faux Estonian Limestone, 2nd Try, by Karen A. Scofield

I have decided to develop my own faux stone polymer clay recipes for beads and other purposes. I’m making my own recipes for two reasons — I want to use what I have (lots of decade-old clay and odds and ends) and then draw on my childhood. It was very tactile and full of color. We went rock hunting as a familiy and both my brothers became geologists. I’m more on the artistic end of things.

My mother was born in Estonia, I never got to visit the country, but this is inspired by Tufa limestone from there. It’s associated with springs, is a chemically precipitated soft and porous limestone. I have some inclusions I’ll want to add to the clay, they’re in the oven right now, so future versions may include them.

Polymer Clay Goddess Beads by Karen A. Scofield

Polymer Clay Goddess Beads by Karen A. Scofield. Baked two. The left is of Fimo Soft Marble and the right is of the artist’s own faux limestone recipe. Picture was taken in evening indoor lighting this time. 1st attempt at Tufa limestone. Needs improvement.

Anyway, while the grandson took his afternoon nap, I did a visual study of different limestones, and quickly pulled out some of my older clays, sand, beach stones from the local beach, half an old wanut shell, some crumbly old clay mixes, my molds, and embossing powders.

I have an ever-growing stash of my own bead prototypes and their molds that I occasionally pull out to play with various faux polymer clay rock/wood/semiprecious  stone recipes. Thank goodness for two-part silicone mold putty like Amazing Mold Putty! Very durable stuff. Anyway, here texture and other touches are added after molding, that’s where the pitted beach stones and old walnut half come in, and sometimes the bead has to be reshaped a bit after being textured. I seek to explore both ancient and modern renditions of goddess/mom/fertility beads like these.

Here’s to winging it and eyeballing things, to being in the flow! The inner critic seems to shut up then. 🙂