The Fine Art Air-Dry and Polymer Clay Market Can Be Confusing for the Beginner to Intermediate Artist

What this page is and isn’t about — It’s about fine art air-dry and polymer clays. It’s not about ceramic, cold porcelain, resin clay, epoxy clays, or any kiln-cured products.

This page was written after reading, which was about Premier clay, which is an artist grade air-dry clay, and the beginner’s needs and understandable confusion.

For jewelry making, Premo!, Fimo Classic, Kato, and Cernit are some of your better choices of oven-cured polymer clays –they’re durable enough and do not have to be sealed unless certain surface treatments (mica powders like Pearl Ex or Perfect Pearls…) require it. See:

Durability… While people making charms often use various air-dry clays, they usually don’t construct bracelets or rings out of air-dry clays. Jewelry may take much more wear and tear.

Seal it or not? As a rule, air-dry clays generally have to be sealed once dry and finished but oven-cured polymer clays don’t. (Two-part epoxy clays don’t have to be sealed but although they’re often called air-dry, they actually cure by chemical reaction and may even be able to cure under water. They’re not true air-dry clays.)

Cracks in Premier clay.… Cracks don’t mean your air-dry clay is weak. Premier is one of the strongest air-dry clays. Nearly all air-dry clays have some shrinkage and Premier is no exception, although it shrinks less than some air-dry clays. Having a good armature, if armature is necessary, and using minimal amounts of water while sculpting with Premier can decrease the likelihood or severity of cracks. Sometimes cracks happen but they’re easily be repaired with Premier, even if your item dried. See the below video. Cracks may occur if you added too much water while sculpting, used a cardboard armature, used thin clay over a rigid armature (Ostrich legs, for example), let your item dry too quickly, or didn’t support sculpture parts subject to gravity. Don’t dry your Premier clay items under a fan, for example. Do remember to keep unused clay in an air-tight bag and/or container.

For figurative works, Premix, an air-dry clay made by the same company as Premier, is easier to sculpt and blend than Premier. Doll artist Hannie Sarris loved Premix clay. Premier clay may take some different sculpting techniques than what one would be used to with polymer clay and one uses minimal (!) amounts of water are used while sculpting Premier. People working with these air-dry clays might lightly dab their fingers across a wet sponge to keep clay moist enough while sculpting. They may use a mister type of water bottle. Do not use Sculpey Clay Softener or any type of oil to soften, smooth, and blend these air-dry clays — they are hybrid clays and have their own characteristics, sculpting techniques, storage and compatibility considerations. They’re not like the majority of polymer clays that are oven-cured (e.g., Fimo Classic, Fimo Soft, Cernit, Fimo Doll, Premo!). They’re not like most air-dry clays on the market. They are used by a number of very famous art doll artists and others.

So yes, there are indeed air-dry polymer clays — Activa Lumina Translucent Polymer Clay, Staedtler Fimo Air Basic Modeling Clay, and Activa LaDoll Premier clay are examples of air-dry polymer clays. Activa, the company that makes laDoll Premier clay, describes Premier clay as a type of polymer clay on their site. Lumina has long been known to the polymer clay community. Fimo Air Basic is weaker than either of those.

Polymer clays have their own issues — Dirt, lint, hair, compatibility issues, and baking considerations (always monitor your oven with two oven thermometers, not counting the oven’s own temperature reading). If you look at it that way, a few easily repaired cracks in Premier clay items isn’ts a bad deal.

Sculpey Diluent, AKA liquid Sculpey Clay Softener, works with oven-cured polymer clays, specifically, and not with air-dry polymer clays. Here’s the Sculpey Clay Softener Material Safety Data Sheet:

In contrast, Makin’s, Hearty, Das, “cold porcelain” clays, Creative Paperclay, Celluclay, and epoxy putties are not polymer clays no matter who describes them as such.

For a whole lot of information on all things polymer and air-dry clay, see:

…Or go to clay manufacturers’ sites and hit their FAQs and MSDS pages. I wish there were sculpting, storage, compatibility, MSDS and other information (to seal or not to seal) with each clay package that one takes home, but that’s sadly not the case.


Tutorial on How to Make Polymer Clay Goddess Beads

2 inch tall polymer clay Goddess beads by Karen A. Scofield

2″ tall Goddess beads by Karen A. Scofield. Artist grade polymer clay. Tutorial.

Why I Made the Tutorial

Hi, I’m the artist, Karen A. Scofield and I live in Kenosha, WI. I made this tutorial after finding thousands, of Pinterest pins showed my goddess pendants and strongly inferred that one can make these with kids out of a homemade cornstarch and baking soda clay. That’s both an unauthorized use of my work and misleading on several counts. My photos are copyrighted, they didn’t have permission to use them, and did not respond to my remark asking them to take my photo of of their page.

My Youtube Video After the Discovery:

My beads shown above are on my sari0009 flickr and appear in the blurb book Polymer Artists Showcase, by Tejae Floyde. (Tejae Floyde has a wonderful site and blog and has her work published in numerous magazines and books.) They’re about 2″ tall and I used artist grade polymer clay to make them (more on that in a moment).  They’re colored with mica powders, then sealed.

Karen A. Scofield’s Polymer Clay Goddess Tutorial

Note: This tutorial assumes that you have some basic knowledge of polymer clay, includes information, and also many links to assist or inspire you. If you’re more experienced, you can probably follow along by mostly just reading the bolded font description of each step.

This is an intermediate to advanced project and is not suitable for children. I know I wouldn’t attempt it with children and maybe not even most older teens. It involves clay residue, an X-Acto Knife, knitting needles and/or clay tools, mica powders you don’t want to breathe in, wearing a mask, a higher level of attentiveness, and a lot of set up and clean up…not to mention baking your beads and sealing them.

Level: Intermediate to Advanced, Not Suitable for Children

Note: Before proceeding, read the directions. After your project or before any breaks, clean off everything you touched with baby wipes that have some rubbing alcohol in them. This is done because raw polymer clay contains plasticizers that can melt or mar furniture finish, some, oven dials, etc.  I once melted off all the temperature markings on a toaster oven dial because I didn’t wipe things down.

Time: Hands-on time is one to several hours. Actual time from start to finish will be several days to a week, depending on your dipping (into the finish) process. I’d say give it 2 to 6 days, minimum.


1. This process begins with making a paper template the size you wish your finished pendant(s) to be. mine were around 2”. You may draw your own goddess or print a copyfree you found online.


Choices to start with — use molds or cut out your own using templates. I created my molds after making beads cut along my templates.

If you’re drawing freehand, fold paper in half, draw one side of the goddess, carefully cut it out, lay the template flat, and there you have it — a symmetrical goddess template!  You can trace around this template onto another piece of paper and cut that out for your final template. This makes sure your final copies aren’t dirty with graphite or what have you. My focal pendant designs here were around 2″ long  and I would say that I 1 to 3 inches is a common size range for these types of beads. I use small, curved craft scissors or cuticle scissors to cut out the templates.

After you’ve made your templates, put them aside in a safe place for the moment. I put mine in a used, clean, dry, transparent prescription bottle.

If you think you might like to reuse your templates for beads or other crafts, you could use a more durable template sheet – Dura Lar is an ideal material for making templates. Or upcycle plastic sheet from packaging that comes with many of the products we buy.

3. Choose your clay. If you choose to coat your beads with mica powder, which is quite beautiful, mica powders show up best on black or very dark clay, the darker the better! Suitable polymer clays for these include Premo, Pardo Jewellry Clay, Fimo Professional, or Fimo Classic. Today, I’m working with 8-ish-year-old Fimo Classic (from before its reformulation and associated temperature change). (I keep my polymer clay’s in a controlled environment so the clay was relatively easy to condition despite its age.)

If you’re in the US, you can probably find Premo or Fimo Clasic in craft stores like Michaels or Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Store. You’d probably have to order Pardo Jewellry Clay or Fimo Professional from an online source, in most areas. If you have darker scrap clay, really dark, made from artist grade polymer clays like these, you might be able to use that.

A Few Notes on Temperature and Polymer Clay — Polymer clays can partially cure if they get over 90 degrees F, so keep them in a cool, dark, dry place or buy them just before use. Never leave raw polymer clay in a hot vehicle or windowsill. Try to avoid ordering your polymer clays during the summer heat since heat can partially cure your clay or make it much harder to condition. Consider where your polymer clay is shipping from and what their weather is like.

4. Create a dedicated, clean work area. Now that you’ve chosen a clay, you’re going to make a clean and clear work area. I use a clay-friendly mat but you can also work on waxed paper. I’d suggest taping either down to a suitable surface that won’t get ruined by masking tape, etc. Why work over a polymer clay friendly mat, ceramic/marble tile, a clean sheet of glass, or waxed paper? You don’t want to get the raw clay residue on your furniture or rug, etc. The raw residue within uncured polymer clay has plasticizers in it, so it can chemically alter the finish on some furniture and other surfaces.

5. Set up to cut, smooth, stamp, and do a surface treatment. You will need:

  • Baby wipes (add just a bit of the rubbing alcohol to them if they don’t contain alcohol)
  • 91% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
  • Face mask
  • Claying tools and/or appropriately sized metal knitting needles
    • Note: You could do the smoothing and assist design with a knitting needle and an embossing stylus tool but a few other favorite tools can come in handy.
  • X-acto knife
  • Rolling pin (I use a heavy marble one but you can buy rollers specifically for use with polymer clay)
  • Rubber stamps and/or homemade stamps that you can make with scrap clay or pencil erasers
  • Mica powder (Pearl Ex is a popular brand for use on polymer clay) — Optional
  • Small cosmetic brush for applying the mica powder
  • Small cutting mat (the one I use is only used for polymer clay work).
  • Terra cotta saucers of the same size or suitable enclosed cooking dish
  • Water based Varathane — Water Based Varathane Diamond Polyurethane Interior is what older cans said. Newer cans are labeled Varathane Polyurethane Heavy Use Formula Interior Water Based Crystal Clear (Gloss Formula). The gloss formula manufacturer’s number is 20041H and UPC code is is 026748200045
  • If you don’t already have a magnifying lamp, you might consider getting one but it’s not mandatory.

6. Wash your hands and mind what you wear. Wash your hands thoroughly, dry them, and make sure you’re not wearing clothes that shed fibers (a fluffy bathrobe or sweater, for example). Make sure you’re not working near the dryer (too much lint that will end up in your clay) or other things that may create dust or shed fibers/hair. Polymer clay is tacky by nature and can easily collect dirt and lint. It’s like a lint, dust, and fiber magnet.

Rub your hands and work surface with clay to pick up any last fibers or hair you’d swear weren’t there. This should always be your final step before working the clay.

7. Condition your polymer clay. Take out enough polymer clay to roll out and cut a few beads. A 2 oz. block or two might be more than enough, depending on how much you want to make. You’ll probably roll it out to about 5 mm or 1/4 inch thick or so. You condition it by smushing it and rolling it in your hands until it’s pliable.

Conditioning Resources:


Marble rolling pin for rolling out polymer clay

8. Roll out your polymer clay. You can roll it out to about 5 mm to about 1/4″ thick. If you make it too thick, it may be more difficult to cut without distortion. I use a heavy marble rolling pin for my polymer clay because it makes the job easier. You just have to take into account the weight as you try to roll it to a uniform width. As you roll, turn and flip the clay to create that uniformity. Don’t press down too hard and create too much distortion in any one area. Easy does it and have patience.


Cutting stage for polymer clay Goddess beads.

9. Lay out the template(s) and cut. You will not cut through at once. That creates too much distortion. Go around once with a more superficial, straight up and down, tentative cutting line, while making sure not to push in or cut the template. Go around several more times, again cutting straight up and down, as opposed to cutting sideways at a slant. Cut the outer lines first, starting from the top of the figure to the bottom. Once the outer cutting is done, use the same careful cutting technique to make any inside cuts, like around the head and inside of the arms, for example. You may have to help the inside cuts along with curved cuticle scissors or fine, curved craft scissors. Just keep in mind not to rip, slice through, or distort the bead. This is not a job for the heavy-handed.


Smoothing stage for polymer clay Goddess beads

10. Smooth the edges. Personally, I find it useful to work under a magnifying lamp at this point, much of the time. You will use your fingers and tools to round, bevel the angular cut edges. This part will take more hands-on time most likely. Maintain a light-handed touch and hold the clay in such a way that you avoid too much distortion. (

Even with care, the connected “arms” in a design like this will lengthen slightly as you smooth, creating just a little more space around the head. This is why you don’t want a design that starts with much longer arms, unless that’s the look you really want.

You may bend your figure a bit as you work on it, so periodically take out the template and line your clay up with it.

Smooth your inner surfaces and edges likewise. Again, check your template against your work again and adjust hour clay figure if necessary.  It may help to look at your clay goddess in a mirror check to check for asymmetry, a tilt to one side.


Stamping stage for polymer clay Goddess beads

11. Stamp. You can create your own polymer clay stamps or use commercial ones. A popular stamp for Goddess bead designs is the simple spiral. You can use molds that indent designs or that create raised ones. Expect to smooth out any unwanted ridges the edge of the stamp might create and touch things up.

If using commercial stamps, check to see if you can make derivative works if you plan to sell the resulting beads.

Stamp and Texture Sheet Resources:

Optional: Bead Holes. Chill your beads in the freezer for 15 minutes and gently use a sewing needle, pin, or bead hole wires made for polymer clay to create your bead holes. Run your bead hole tool into the hole from both directions while avoiding bead distortions. Or create a larger bead hole with a skinny enough juice box/bag straw.

12. Add breasts if you want. Create two equal sized balls and lightly press onto the body of the bead without distorting them but press hard enough that the breasts stay attached and smooth clay toward the top of each breast. Breasts are sometimes best added after stamping but can often be added before you stamp on a design. Just be careful not to smush them when stamping on the design if you add a bosom first.


Mica powder (Pearl Ex) surface treatment stage for polymer clay Goddess beads

13. Mica powder (optional). Wear a face mask to avoid breathing in the mica powders. Personally, I find it best to work under a standing magnifying lamp at this point. You can apply mica powders to small, itty bitty designs with the head and side of a simple flat head sewing pin. Dip the pin lightly in the mica powder, perhaps lightly tap off the excess, and apply (rub it onto the clay) while avoiding dropping clumps of mica powder onto the clay. For coating the rest of the bead’s surface with Pearl Ex mica powder, use a small, dedicated cosmetic brush, one small enough and soft enough for the task. I often will get the mica powder off the inside of the mic powder lid and then apply it to the bead, perhaps occasionally adding a tiny bit to the lid in order to reload the brush. Lightly but thoroughly brush it on your bead. You will not want the brush so loaded with mica powder that it’s coming off all over the place as you apply it to the bead. You want to load it with just enough in order to gently apply it to the surface. Easy does it. A little goes a long way.

Tutorial on

Mica powders were applied over paper towel and now the bead is ready to cure


Two terra cotta saucers from the garden section are used to create a chamber for baking polymer clay beads.

14. Now that your bead is coated with the mica powders, place it on it’s final baking surface, wipe your hands with a wet wipe containing a bit of rubbing alcohol, and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water. Check your bead alignment and arm placement against the template last time before baking.

Many people bake on a glossy ceramic tile placed inside clamshelled disposable aluminum cooking pans held shut with metal bull dog clips. (Personally, I used two terra cotta saucers of the same size and invert one over the other to create an enclosed baking container.)

15. Follow the clay manufacturer’s directions for baking the clay. You’ll have to know how thick the thickest part of the bead is and what temperature the package says to bake the clay at — these will tell you have long and how hot to bake your bead . You will use an independent oven thermometer or two; Sculpey sells them for clayers. Oven temps, either regular ovens or toaster ovens, spike from time to time during the baking cycle. Baking in enlcosed baking containers helps avoid burning that can occur during the temperature spikes.

16. Let the bead cool down in your baking pan before handling the bead. This so you don’t burn yourself or mar the clay with a fingernail. Clays are often softer when hot out of the oven than they are after they’ve cooled.

17. Seal — Brush on thin layers, or dip, but don’t spray (probably optional if you didn’t use mica powders). Why seal? If you don’t seal a bead coated with mica powders, it will dull and the mica powders may wear of on your skin and clothes. Varathane is low odor, cleans up with soap and water and is pretty durable. To prepare, you will stir the Varathane slowly, let it settle for an hour or so with the lid on, then put some in a smaller container that has a good lid. Leave enough space because you’re going to thin it a bit with water. Stir slowly and carefully to avoid air bubbles. Apply the Varathane, let it dry a couple of days, apply again, let dry, apply again, let dry. It’s better to do several thin coats than one or two thick ones. Read the label for drying times. Avoid build up of the Varathane at the bottom of the bead but don’t scrape the bead while getting excess off. Some people scrape off the varathane without actually touching the bead and some spin the bead (without dropping it) to get the excess off. Refer to the dipping tutorial and other Varathane pages, below, if you have any questions. You may find it easier to brush it on rather an dip, just be careful to work on a mixed media sheet that wipes clean easily or a glossy, light colored or white, ceramic tile (you can wipe and/or scrape it clean with a razor blade).

Varathane is chosen because it bonds best with the polymer clay and works best with the mica powders. It’ll be water-resistant but not waterproof. If your bead design doesn’t have bead holes, you can hang the bead by a thread and dip. The thread can be carefully cut away once the bead is completely dry — cut the thread flush with the bead’s surface without knicking the finish. You can hang your bead(s) to dry with the same thread. If you have bead hole, you can put a beading wire, thread or perhaps even a toothpick through and dip. I used a tie rack to hang my beads to dry because that’s what I had.

Varathane (Sealant) Resources:

Resource FYI: About Spray Sealants on Polymer Clay

Finished! — It’s not the best picture as it was taken at night. I usually photograph my beads in direct daylight on sunny days when it’s not too early or too late (yet almost never between mid morning and early afternoon). I was going to keep the bead all blue, but I decided to color the raised stamped areas with Viva Decor Precious Metal Color after the bead was baked . That’s another alternative.

Polymer Clay Goddess Bead Tutorial by Karen A. Scofield

Created for Goddess Bead Tutorial by Karen A. Scofield

Optional — Making Your Own Molds: If you have the materials and know-how, making your original pendant molds saves you a lot of work if you wish to make multiples. I usually use two-part silicone Amazing Mold Putty. Amazing Mold putty makes it easy to get even more dimensional pendants out of your molds. In the US, Amazing Mold Putty is found in many craft stores like Michael’s or Hobby Lobby and I always use a coupon.

If you’re intend to use your molds for both polymer clays and resin pendants, check this link on Amazing Mold vs. Easy Mold.

(With commercial molds, check if you can use them to make derivative works if you’re selling the pendants.)

Jewelry Design Considerations

Today, I created a bead that I will attach to a necklace using a jewelry bail. That’s why this one didn’t need bead holes. If your bead and jewelry design called for bead holes, then you have to decide which direction the bead hole(s) will run.

Labor-Intensive and Not for KIds

From designing and then conditioning clay to the last dip in the sealant, each bead can take from about 1 to 2 or more hours of hands-on time to create. You’ll be working with sharp instruments, powders you don’t want to breathe in, the oven, and Varathane. The constant mindfulness present while successfully creating something like this while avoiding rips and distortions is probably a good example of why artists and other creatives tend to have more gray matter. For all the above reasons, I’d say this is a tutorial for adults and perhaps some more mature teens that have very good hand-eye coordination.

Jan. 15, 2015 Update…Possibilities

This time I used molds I made based on prototypes I made using the above method. They were coated with Aztec Gold Pearl Ex mica powder, except for one blue bead. I will yet add colored resin with glitter/mica inclusion and other touches, including finally sealing them in water based Varathane Interior, gloss. In the stars, such as in the bead on the right, below, I could use different chakra colors — or whatever else strikes my fancy.


2″ Tall Polymer Clay Goddess Beads, by Karen A. Scofield.

Karen A. Scofield's Polymer Clay Goddess Beads

Polymer clay Goddess beads made by Karen A. Scofield. Prototype beads were made by the artist who then created silicone molds…

Video Showing the Beads

Video About Solving a Problem With Baking the Pardo Jewellry Clay Used in These Beads