Many art doll artists build up and sculpt their polymer clay doll parts over wooden dowels. My recent youtube video shows that I can place these dowels in my stand and tilt the whole thing so that the art doll heads or other parts tilt up toward me as I work. I can just as easily return the stand to level position. The clay stand can go from work table to oven and has so far prevented burning of polymer clay parts during tests. It also evens out the temperature. Even good ovens momentarily spike in temperature, from what I understand, so it’s wonderful if you can find something that holds temperatures even within it, despite expected oven fluctuations.
I made my stand out of clay using what I had, which was Amaco Air Dry Modeling Clay, but the one shown in the Creager Studios instructional DVDs was made out if wood. Since I made this with a natural air dry clay, and not a more durable kiln-cured clay, I coated it with Kato Liquid Polyclay and cured it. If I hadn’t done that, the stand could leave clay dust and crumbles all over while manipulating it. Problem solved. The Kato Liquid Polyclay was chosen because it cures at a higher temperature than the polymer clays I chose for creating my art dolls. This means I don’t have to worry about the Kato Liquid Polyclay burning.
I guess I’m the oddball that makes a stand like this before really getting into sculpting polymer clay art dolls, I’m still a beginner, but I like figuring things out ahead of time in order to hopefully avoid some of the most common problems — how to comfortably work with your clay yet keep it as clean as possible, how to avoid marring it when working on it or between sculpting sessions, and how to cure it properly without burning or darkening the clay. Yeah.